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Victorian Mourning Dress

on June 14, 2010 – 8:57 am

This black silk taffeta dress with a front fastening reflects the style of 1859-1860. The simplicity and color of this Victorian dress points to it being worn for mourning.

The separate bodice features the full bishop sleeve of the 50s but closed at the wrist with a cuff instead of the open pagoda or bell sleeve. There are epaulettes or caps over the sleeves trimmed with black silk fringe that draw attention to the drooping shoulder line.

The very wide skirt is set in to a waistband but is lacking the pleats and gathers of the period; most likely it was altered at a later date. The dimensions and fullness of this style skirt would be supported by a crinoline (also called a hoop skirt or extension skirt). Beginning in the 1850s, the wearing of a crinoline was a fashion that was adopted by all classes, and worn by both women and young girls. The cage crinoline was light and only required one or two petticoats worn over the top to prevent the steel bands from appearing as ridges in the skirt. At its peak in size, the crinoline reached a diameter of up to 180 centimeters, almost six feet.

 

These dresses feature the wide full skirt of the period with gathers and pleats at the waistline. The lady on the right wears a dress with a front fastening bodice and full bishop sleeves with a drooping shoulder line. [Library of Congress LC-DIG-cwpb-03995]

Close-up photo of the Victorian dress highlights the full bishop sleeve, epaulettes trimmed with black silk fringe, and the drooping shoulder line.

 

Victorian Christmas

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