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Explore the Diplomatic and Political Power of Jewelry

on June 16, 2010 – 3:05 am

A traveling exhibition of jewelry from the personal collection of Madeleine Albright, former U.S. Secretary of State, will open at the Smithsonian Castle June 18. “Read My Pins: The Madeleine Albright Collection” features more than 200 pins, many of which Secretary Albright wore to communicate messages during her diplomatic tenure. The exhibit examines the collection for its historical significance and the expressive power of jewelry and its ability to communicate through a style and language of its own.

While serving under President Bill Clinton, first as U.S. ambassador to the United Nations and then as Secretary of State, she became known for wearing pins that conveyed her views about the situation at hand.

“I found that jewelry had become part of my personal diplomatic arsenal,” Secretary Albright said. “While President George H.W. Bush had been known for saying ‘Read my lips,’ I began urging colleagues and reporters to ‘Read my pins.’”

Serpent, circa 1860. Designer unknown, USA. 18KT yellow gold, diamond.
2.4” x 1.1” (6.1cm x 2.8cm). Courtesy of the Madeleine Albright Collection.
[Photo: John Bigelow Taylor]

A highlight of the exhibition includes a brooch that began Albright’s use of pins as a diplomatic tool. After Saddam Hussein’s press referred to her as an “unparalleled serpent,” she wore a golden snake brooch pinned to her suit for her next meeting on Iraq. The exhibition features the famous snake brooch among many other pins with similar stories—some associated with important world events, others gifts from international leaders or valued friends.

Liberty, 1997. Gijs Bakker, Netherlands. Sterling silver, stainless-steel watches. 4.2” x 3.6” (10.7cm x 9.2cm). Courtesy of the Madeleine Albright Collection. [Photo: John Bigelow Taylor]

In addition, the exhibition showcases a group of Americana pins that are at the center of Secretary Albright’s collection. One pin made for her is a silver brooch that shows the head of Lady Liberty with two watch faces for eyes, one of which is upside down—allowing both her and her visitor to see when it is time for an appointment to end. As demonstrated in this clever work, the exhibit also explores Secretary Albright’s ongoing impact on the field of jewelry design and collecting.

 Bug, Iradj Moini (USA), 1997. In 1999, the Russians bugged the U.S. State Department.
When Albright met with the Russians next, she pinned this giant bug to her left shoulder.
Courtesy of the Madeleine Albright Collection  [Photo: John Bigelow Taylor]

“Read My Pins: The Madeleine Albright Collection” was organized by the Museum of Arts and Design in New York. The exhibition was on view at the William J. Clinton Presidential Center in Little Rock, Ark. The exhibition will be at the Smithsonian Castle June 18 through Oct. 11 from 8:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. daily. For more information: http://www.si.edu/exhibitions/read-my-pins.

Top Image: Bee, circa 1980. Designer unknown, USA. 14KT pink gold, silver, enamel, diamonds, garnets. 2.4” x 1.9” (6cm x 4.9cm). Courtesy of the Madeleine Albright Collection. [Photo: John Bigelow Taylor]

Additional Information: Newsweek

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