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The V&A will open the new William and Judith Bollinger
Jewellery Gallery on 24 May 2008. The gallery will display
3,500 jewels from the V&A’s jewellery collection, one of the
finest and most comprehensive in the world.
The new gallery will centre principally on the story of
European jewellery during the last 800 years. On show will
be jewels that reflect the splendour of courtly life, some
of the finest designs from the great jewellery houses of the
20th century and jewels designed by important contemporary
makers.
Brooch, Comb and Earrings of enamelled gold set with
cornelian intaglios,
French, about 1808. Made for the Empress Josephine.
Private collection on loan to the V&A.
Photo: V&A Images.
V&A Museum |
Historic highlights include jewelled pendants given by Queen
Elizabeth I to her courtiers, and diamonds worn by Catherine
the Great of Russia. The age of Napoleon is represented by
the famous Beauharnais Emeralds, the gift of Napoleon to his
adopted daughter, and by tiaras and ornaments worn by the
Empress Josephine.
A
major donation by William Bollinger has enabled a four-year
renovation of the V&A’s jewellery gallery. The architect,
Eva Jiricna, has redesigned the space, introducing a central
glass spiral staircase rising to a new mezzanine floor.
Videos and interactives, in the gallery and on the V&A
website, will explore the techniques and history of
jewellery, providing over 7000 images of jewels.
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Spray of laurel,
French, about 1805.
Private collection on loan to the V&A.
Photo: V&A Images.
V&A Museum |
New additions to the displays include a superb group of
jewellery by Lalique, and Lady Mountbatten’s ‘tutti frutti’
ruby, sapphire, emerald and diamond bandeau, which she
bought from Cartier in 1928. The gallery will provide the
first opportunity to see the jewels given by New York
collector and dealer, Patricia V. Goldstein, which have
significantly added to the V&A’ s collection of jewels by
Tiffany and Cartier.
The gallery will display exquisite pieces made by some of
the most prestigious designers of New York, Paris, London
and St Petersburg. There are two diamond tiaras by Cartier,
a rare plique-à-jour enamel and pearl bracelet by
Boucheron and a gold Chaumet bangle with a core of rubies
and diamonds. Among the objects by Fabergé is an enamelled
snuff box with the diamond monogram of Tsar Nicholas II.
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Bodice ornament,
English, about 1850.
Brilliant- and rose-cut diamonds, set in silver backed with
gold.
The three leaf and berry sprays made earlier, about 1830.
Cory Bequest.
Photo: V&A Images
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The V&A’s collection is outstandingly rich in 19th century
jewellery. There are sprays of diamonds mounted on tremblers
as well as revivalist jewellery in the archaeological and
renaissance styles. New to the gallery will be the Judith H.
Siegel gift of jewellery by Castellani and Giuliano which
includes the Helen of Troy necklace designed by Sir Edward
Poynter.
Over 140 living goldsmiths and jewellers are represented in
the gallery. The contemporary work ranges from ring sets by
Wendy Ramshaw to a carved pin in recycled acrylic by Peter
Chang and a vivid papier-mâché neckpiece by Marjorie Schick.
Another addition will be a selection from the Royal College
of Art Visiting Artists Collection.
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The Manchester Tiara,
French, 1903.
Designed by Cartier.
Accepted by HM Government in lieu of Inheritance Tax and
allocated to the V & A Museum, 2007.
Photo: Angela Moore.
V&A Museum.
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Mark Jones, Director of the V&A, said: 'The power of jewels
lies in their beauty and their ability to stir human
emotions. The V&A has one of the finest collections of
jewellery, and the imagination and passion of William and
Judith Bollinger have allowed us to create a gallery worthy
of this collection’.
William and Judith Bollinger said: ‘It has been an enormous
pleasure working with the V&A's talented staff and
consultants to create a truly unique gallery. We hope it
provides inspiration to all who visit – whether craftsmen,
aspiring artists or simply lovers of beauty.’
The William and
Judith Bollinger Jewellery Gallery, designed by Eva Jiricna,
is part of the V&A’s Future Plan to transform the Museum
through new galleries and beautiful redisplays of its
collections. For more information visit:
www.vam.ac.uk/
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