History
of Victorian Jewelry
Cameos and Intaglios, Charms and Victorian Mourning
Jewelry.
by Kate
Dwyer (Illustrated with jewelry by Extasia)
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Queen Victoria
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The History of Victorian Jewelry in 4
paragraphs? Impossible! Here's the challenge – the era
officially starts in 1837 with the coronation of a very
young Queen Victoria. It ends with her death at the age of
82, in 1901. This woman LOVED jewelry. She designed it, wore
it, and gave it as gifts through the rise of British Global
Empire, the inception of the industrial revolution, and the
reaction to mass production that gave birth to the Arts and
Crafts Movement (1870-1914). Her passion and preferences
fueled the talents of the jewelry trade of London her whole
life, most markedly upon the death of her beloved husband,
Albert. But before we delve into Mourning Jewelry, let’s
look at a couple other themes that flourished during the
Victorian Age. |
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Extasia Cameo Necklace [PN55]
An over the top
multi charm cameo necklace of hand carved
Italian shell cameos. Hanging from gorgeous
strands of pale blush colored freshwater pearls,
this necklace is stunning. Drapes at collar, or
can be worn as choker.
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At the beginning of the 1800s a single hand
carved semi precious gem Intaglio or Cameo was an extremely rare
and treasured possession. It was about then, 1807 or so, that
shell cameos experienced a resurgence. Conch shell cameos were
still carved by hand, mostly by artisans along the Italian
coast. They grew in popularity partially because the relative
ease of carving shell over stone opened up a whole new level of
artistry. It also allowed for production carving, which was
faster, more formulaic. The end result was a cameo that was both
affordable and beautiful. It became the perfect token of that
Victorian tradition of the "Grand Tour" – a trip often taken by
the upper classes of the Northern climes of Europe to experience
the art and culture and mild climate of Italy and Greece. They
would return from their journey with Italian carved shell cameo
necklaces, rings, and earrings, or the even more highly coveted
lava stone cameos, carved out of the earthy colored lava from
the base of Mt. Vesuvius. |
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Extasia Lava Bracelet [NB4]
A beautiful combination of
Cameos complimented by a
14K Gold Wash finish makes this a stunning yet classic
bracelet. |
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The industrial revolution began to gain steam
and with it came more affordable manufacturing techniques,
pressed glass for glass intaglios, stamped or cast metal for
settings, and chain making machines. Nobility and the wealthiest
merchants were no longer the only people who could afford a
selection of jewelry to accent their wardrobe.
Queen Victoria may also get the lion’s share of credit for
popularizing the charm bracelet and charm necklace, as we know
it. She had a series of charms designed and produced to give as
gifts to her extended family and circle of friends every New
Year.
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Extasia Charm Bracelet [RB5]
Our
Charm du Jour bracelet in 14K gold plate. A pretty
neutral color mix of German glass intaglios and cameos, plus
hand-carved Italian shell cameos, beautiful for any season.
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Extasia Hand Carved Jet Earrings [NSE69]
Made popular by
Queen Victoria, jewelry from
this fossilized wood material later came to be
known as Mourning Jewelry in the mid-1800s.
These earrings, so light in weight, are
2 1/2 inches in length.
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In 1861, Prince Albert died, and again Queen
Victoria influenced the direction of jewelry design and
production. She went into permanent mourning- only wearing black
clothing and black jewelry for the rest of her life. For several
years all of England followed her example. Jet, a fossilized
driftwood, suddenly became the material of choice for jewelry. And what a stroke of luck that was for the good people of Whitby,
on the coast of Yorkshire. They were sitting on the finest Jet
deposits of the world. Carved Jet chains, Jet Crosses, Jet pins
and earrings - indeed every style heretofore offered in colorful
gems, glass and metal, were now produced in Jet. |
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Victorian Jewelry is the subject of hundreds of books, and
we are only skimming the surface in these few paragraphs, but
here are three key components to look for in determining jewelry
from this era:
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Spans the time period between approximately 1840-1900
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Has a strong focus on figurative motifs and sentimental
subject matter
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Commonly uses unusual materials, techniques,
non-precious stones, and production manufactured metal work.
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Extasia
Necklace [NN61]
A 3 German glass cameo necklace on multi-strands of Agate,
Opal, Onyx and Labradorite Mix. Cameo images are from Greek
mythology, of Venus and Medusa. |
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Extasia is a company of American artisans, committed to
re-inventing Victorian Jewelry for Contemporary Fashion. We use
hand carved Italian shell cameos, hand pressed German glass
intaglios, jet, vintage glass, and semi-precious gem materials,
combined with the gold plated, bronze and sterling silver
settings we design and manufacture, here in northern California.
(www.extasia.com) *Images used in this essay
incorporated Extasia products.
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